From the heights of the snowcapped Dolomites to the verdant Valle del Cibo, I recently had the delicious pleasure of visiting a number of the finest food and drink producers in northern Italy, taking in lots of pretty countryside along the way and getting to known some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met.
The ninth and final day of my Ham Highway pilgrimage had me wrapping things up in one of the world’s tastiest towns – Bologna! That I’ve been to Bologna four times (twice just this year) should speak volumes about how much I love this city. It and the region of Emilia-Romagna have as prominent a cuisine and as celebrated a food culture as anywhere in the world. Even among Italians from other parts of the country, the gastronomic sensibilities of the Bolognese are held in the highest esteem.
Tamara Venturi
There’s a lot to see and do in Bologna. And even if you’re not a foodie, you’ll have fun here and be blown away by its history and culture. Much of the touristic ‘turf’ can be covered on your own but if you have an desire to delve deeper, allow me to recommend guida turistica di Bologna, Tamara Venturi.
I thought I had a good sense of what Bologna was all about, but after my day with Tamara I realised there was so much I didn’t know and still so much more left to discover. Not only was Tamara able to make this city come alive for me with her vast knowledge and accommodating flexibility with respect to my particular interests, but she had good rapport with lots of shop owners and market vendors. Some of the places she showed me suggested a insider’s edge based on years of experience and an astute understanding of just what each individual visitor might hope to experience.
I don’t think Tamara has a website, but I have her email address and phone number. If you’re keen to take advantage of her expertise and good natured guidance, contact me and I’ll put you in touch with her.
A Tale of Two Markets
Both in the centre of town and a mere meander from each other, the covered Mercato delle Erbe and the open air Mercato di Mezzo are must-see foodie meccas. Delle Erbe is a one-stop shopping destination (as long as you’re only shopping for Italy food) that not so long ago seemed doomed to close but now has plans to invite more vendors due to reinvigorated demand.
Just across the city’s Piazza Maiggore, Mercato di Mezzo yields a delectable narrow laned stroll through the edible history and tradition of Bologna. The market is a fraction of the size it used to be thanks to successful multi-storey book shop and gourmet supermarket, Eatly, moving in to offer a contemporary take on Bologna’s love of food and drink. It’s worth noting though, that with Eatly’s popularity has come increased foot traffic, and now there are plans to expand outdoor market activity here.
In and around Mercato di Mezzo are some of Bologna’s most iconic food and drink shops as well. You cannot visit Bologna without at least poking your head inside …
Drogheria Gilberto, which might be the prettiest little cafe/candy shop/wine shop and bar you’ll ever step inside;
Bakery and pastificio Paolo Atti & Figli, for a taste of freshly made onsite Bolognese specialities including tortellini, zuppa imperiale and torta di riso;
A F Tamburini, for a delectable lesson on what a true Italian deli should be like; and
Fine food purveyors, Vecchia Malga (with shops next to di Mezzo and delle Erbe, as well as others in town and even at the airport), for a ‘best of Bologna’ shopping spree.
Eat
I’d had breakfast at my hotel in Modena (just a short and inexpensive train ride away) and my supper was back home in London that night. So I only got to enjoy one meal while in Bologna – lunch at Osteria del Cappello. It was a lovely lunch though in an attractive setting, and one that more than met my expectations and sustained my high regard for cibo Bolognese. Everything here was freshly made and gorgeous with locally sourced wines to match. I especially loved my satisfying serving of a the Bolognese classic, polpette con piselli (little meatballs with peas).
Of course, that’s just one of many exemplary places to eat. And despite not having any during this specific occasion, I’d be amiss not point out that gelato in Bologna is some of the best in the Italy (and, thus, the world).
Find out more at alcappellorosso.it.
Stay
Alas, I was only in Bologna for a day. But even just a half day in Bologna is better than a whole one in a number of other places. So I was so glad to have been able to squeeze in the last few remaining hours of my “Ham Highway” adventure here. Same as with dining, visitors are spoiled for choice when it comes to decent places to stay. Osteria del Cappello is the restaurant for a four-star hotel, Al Cappello Rosso. I’d be more than happy to stay there next time I visit.
Beyond my fantastic meal, I liked how the hotel’s look and feel was contemporary and comfortable without distracting from the historic surroundings. Al Cappello is the site of one of Bologna’s oldest traditional taverns. Also, I really appreciated the staff letting me stow my bags there while I roamed around the city and helping me book my car to the airport.
The hotel’s site is the same as for the osteria, alcappellorosso.it.
For more about the region of Emilia-Romagna visit emiliaromagnaturismo.it.
I would like to thank the fine folks at boutique digital agency, The 7th Chamber, for helping sponsor this trip.
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